Forum Rules. Get the latest roadbike reviews, news, race results, and much more by signing up for the Roadbikereview Newsletter. Login Register. Remember Me? Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 25 of Thread: How important is exact torque on the rear cassette? How important is exact torque on the rear cassette? I fully understand the importance of properly torquing down smaller bolts on a bike, especially a carbon frame.
The problem is that the proper torque required for the casette is more than my current wrench allows it only goes to 25 N-m I believe the casette is What I'm wondering is is it really that critical on that piece?
Is a good, "stout" tighten good enough? I'd just rather not spend it if I don't have to. Thanks in advance! This is called penny wise but pound foolish. You can get a torque wrench for this at your local auto parts store.How to Install Sram XD Cassette onto an XD Driver, tighten clockwise.
Tools are an investment. You will use them more than once. Buy a torque wrench. Last edited by Tlaloc; at AM. Re: How important is exact torque on the rear cassette? Originally Posted by Typetwelve. Other countries need to stop hatin' or we'll unfriend them.
Not critical at all, no need for a torque wrench. Your "stout" will do, with some people yours truly included going a bit further to "grunt tight" on those lock rings. I'm sure there are people who use a torque wrench on a cassette lock ring. But I've never seen anyone do that. Just as Platy said above. Didn't see his post before posting mine. I wonder about "cleaning and maintenance," though. I used to take cassettes off all the time to play around with gearing, or sometimes for a spoke replacement.
But I've never taken one off for "cleaning and maintenance" on one of my own bikes.Toggle navigation. Categories Discussions Sign in. November edited November in Road beginners. I have just fitted a new Veloce cassette and I was just wondering how important the torque is? For instance, they say you should tighten to 50 Nm - I don't have a torque wrench so just did it as hard as I could pretty much. Is this ok or will there be issues if it is tightened too much or too little?
Wooliferkins Posts: 2, November As you haven't stripped the threads probably not a problem. I don't tend to speak to anybody when I'm fitting a new cassette.
JAnglesea Posts: Monty Dog Posts: 20, I generally don't use a torque wrench for them, because you can't really over-tighten them and I've never had one come undone either. Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side. Thanks for the responses.
Cassette Removal and Installation
I'll give it another heave then that should be good. Why does it need anything like 50Nm? The locknut holds the cassette on the hub and stops it falling off when the wheel is out of the frame, but that would just require it finger tight.
Even though it's subjected to a lot of torque pedalling uphill out of the saddle for instancethe cassette can't rotate on the hub because of the splines, but if the locknut were loose the cassette would be free to waggle-about laterally a little, up and down the splines. I guess this might cause wear of the splines, might even cause poor gear indexing if it were a considerable amount of waggle, but I don't see that the locknut needs to be massively torqued-up to prevent it.
Having struggled in the past to get a cassette off because the locknut was almost solid, when I put one on I don't put it on that tight at all. Mister W Posts: The locking ring will hold the cassette tight and stop it coming undone at well below 50Nm so don't go mental on it. You may have to take it off sometime in the future and that isn't fun if it's too tight. A good pull on the ratchet handle will be fine.
Haha, good point guys. Maybe I'll see if it is not too tight to get off now I tighten until it's 'getting tight' and then add a quarter turn. There seems to be a point after which it doesn't get any harder to turn it for a while which I have assumed is when you're bending the 1mm spacer ring I'm on Shimano 10 speed.Forum Rules.
Get the latest roadbike reviews, news, race results, and much more by signing up for the Roadbikereview Newsletter. Login Register. Remember Me? Forum Classic Forums Components, Wrenching installing cassette - how much torque? Results 1 to 10 of Thread: installing cassette - how much torque? When installing the lock ring on a shimano cassette, how much torque should be used? It seems to me that once things are snugged up, that should be sufficient, given that pedalling is only likely to make things tighter.
What's the Matter with Kansas? The cassette lock ring usually has the torque setting written on it. In practice, I use "lots".
Old La Honda in less than 20 minutes! Or you can watch race video from the low-key hill climb on Welch Creek. More at www. What UKbloke said. I know my campy lockring says 40Nm. I think most are 35NmNm which will be a pretty tight wrenching. I like to use the good ole' German torque spec. You can't fix stupid. Originally Posted by JoeDaddio. Kerry Irons. Originally Posted by feh. Originally Posted by Kerry Irons. IIRC, 35 n-m is the specification for Shimano cassette lock rings. That's "pretty darn tight" though not as tight as Campy, with a 50 n-m specification.
If anything, pedaling action will tend to loosen a lock ring that was not properly torqued. It's not like you're putting any tightening torque on the lock ring due to pedalling action.
Yeah, you're right. I realized my misconception after posting my question.This article will review the removal and installation of cassette cogs on derailleur-type bicycles. The threaded freewheel system is discussed at Freewheel Removal and Installation. The rear cogs are attached to the hub in one of two ways. This cylindrical mechanism ratchets counter-clockwise for coasting, and locks clockwise for driving the bike when pedaled.
The freehub body has a series of splines on the outer shell. A lockring threads into the freehub and holds the sprockets, or cogs, in place. When the cogs are removed, the ratcheting freehub remains on the hub body.
Most modern bicycles use the freehub system. See a typical cassette hub below. Older bikes may have a large external thread machined into the hub.
The ratcheting mechanism comes off with the cogs when the freewheel unthreads for removal. This article will review the removal and installation of cassette systems. For freewheel systems, see Freewheel Removal and Installation. You will need to determine the style or brand of cassette you have. As a rule of thumb, if the bike has a Campagnolo brand shifting system, it is likely it will have a Campagnolo compatible lockring.
With the modern cassette cog systems, all cogs are fitted with splines. Cogs slide onto the freehub body and are held in place by a lockring. The lockring sits outward from the smallest cog. Turn the lockring counter-clockwise, the opposite way of the arrow, to loosen it. There may be a loud noise when the lockring breaks loose. There is often knurling under the lockring to help keep it in place, and this knurling makes noise when the ring is loosened or tightened.
The FR Remove the skewer or thru axle and install the FR Make sure the teeth are fully engaged in the lockring. Hold cogs as described above and turn the tool counter-clockwise. Cassette freehub bodies and cassettes are often designed so the cogs will fit in only one orientation. Simply insert the FR The lockring mechanism is hidden down inside the cassette stack. Inspect the inner perimiter of the smallest sprocket for 12 splines. Use the FR To remove the cassette, hold it from spinning using a chain whip.
Insert the lockring tool use the FR-5 seriesand turn the tool counter-clockwise. The locking ring will unthread from the freehub and the cassette will lift upward. To install the cassette, lubricate the threads inside the cassette stack. Place the cassette on the freehub body, and use a tool to turn the locking ring clockwise.
Secure to approxiately 40Nm.One of our comments on the latest Tech Spotlight pointed out we didn't touch on the cassette - and JaseRidesBikes was absolutely correct so here it is! We're going to touch in specific on XX1 Cassette installation and where we have commercially found creak issues. The XD driver interface has substantial contact friction in the system, which leads riders to feel that they have torqued the assembly correctly when in fact the cassette is still loose on the driver. The lube and grease steps shown here are not to mask creaks - they are to reduce contact friction during assembly to allow a proper torque of your system.
NOTE: If you have questions don't destroy a cassette or driver. Work with a qualified resource as needed.
Rockrover Apr 10, at I've been plagued with the dreaded creaking issues with my rear cassette. I believe it's the pins holding the 42t to the machined cassette body. I followed the procedure above to no avail, until I repeated the process while adding a liberal amount of penetrating lubricant to the pins I then cleaned up the cassette, greased the interface points as mentioned above, and torqued to spec 40Nm.
MartinKS Apr 30, at Thats not fair! Drunk Leprechauns do a great job, especially when they team up! The ping ping ping sounds like spoke issues but I was told by a few shops that its just the angle the chain makes on the 1x11 and the sound of tooth engagement with the chain. I believed them and lived with it. Then just this weekend I had to change a failed drive side bearing on my Stans 3. On reassembly I followed this cassette lube advice and 40 Nm except that I used triflow everywhere except the free hub threads - I used anti seize on those.
And what do you know Haha, awesome. I believe it was the cassette torque issue but who knows it may have been that bearing. Chesterboy Apr 29, at Just want to say 'thank you' for this article.This article will discuss the basics of torque and torque wrench use. See also related article on Basic Thread Concepts. This article includes a table of various torque recommendations. Threaded fasteners nuts and bolts are used to hold many components to the bike.
As a fastener is tightened, the fastener actually flexes and stretches, much like a rubber band. Each fastener is designed for a certain range of tension. Too much tightening will deform the threads or the parts. Too little preload will mean the fastener will loosen with use. This can damage components, such as a crank ridden with a loose mounting bolt.
Bicycle Torque Specifications
Loose bolts and nuts are also generally the source of various creaking on the bike. Tension in the fastener depends largely upon the amount of torque tightening and the size of the thread.
Generally, engineers will specify a thread size large enough to handle the anticipated stresses. For example, the M5 bolt of a water bottle cage bolt would not be a good choice for holding a crank. Even if the bolt were as tight as possible, it would not provide enough force to hold the arm secure to the spindle. The crank-to-spindle interface receives quite a lot of stress, making larger threads M8, M12, M14 a better choice.
The amount of pressure applied by a thread can be substantial in order to hold the joint secure.
For example, a fully tightened crank bolt can provide over 14, Newton force 3, pounds as it holds the arm in place. It is commonly believed that bolts and nuts often come loose for no apparent reason. However, the common cause for threaded fasteners loosening is simply lack of tension during initial assembly. Vibration, stress, use, or abuse cannot typically overcome the amount of clamping force in a properly sized and secured threaded fastener.
As a simple rule of thumb, any fastener should be tightened as tight as possible without failure of the thread or the component parts.
This means the weakest part of the joint determines the limits of tension, and hence, torque. Torque for mechanics is simply a twisting or turning motion around the axis of the thread. This resistance can be correlated to, but is not a direct measurement of, fastener tension.
Generally, the higher the rotational resistance, the greater tension in the threaded fastener. In other words, the more effort it takes to tighten a bolt, the tighter it is.
Torque is measured as a unit of force acting on a rotating lever of some set length. In the USA, the common unit used to measure torque is the inch-pound abbreviated in-lb. This is a force of one pound acting at the end of a lever wrench only one inch long. Another torque unit used in the USA is the foot-pound abbreviated ft-lb.Get your head around the 1x11 specific freehub body. By David Rome. Simply put, this alternative freehub design came about from SRAM wanting a cassette cog smaller than an 11T — the smallest that common Shimano-type rear wheel freehubs can fit.
XD was designed to work with existing hub axle designs, ratchet mechanisms and bearing placements and so many wheel brands have since created XD freehub bodies to retrofit to existing rear wheel and hub models. Shimano does not offer XD-compatabile drivers.
Pictured is a regular Shimano-type splined freehub body. Currently Shimano is just about the only hub and wheel manufacturer not offering an XD-driver option. The cassette slides on much like the existing cassette, which interlocks with a spline system at the rear of the driver. From here, a standard Shimano-type cassette lockring tool with a spline length of mm is used to tighten the cassette onto the body.
The most crucial aspect of installation is not to over tighten the cassette. With this, the use of a torque wrench is highly recommended to achieve the tightening torque of 40nm this is pretty high. Removal of a SRAM XD-compatible cassette is no different to regular cassettes either, with a chain whip and lockring tool needed, with the process the same too. June 8, at pm. A Shimano-style lockring tool is inserted into the front of the cassette for installation and removal.
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